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Gold versus Platinum
It is true that low quality white 18ct gold loses it's
rhodium plating quite quickly, sometimes in 6 months, and
will then need to be re-rhodiated.
24ct yellow gold, in order to be made into 18ct 'white' gold
can be mixed with either
nickel or paladium as the alloy. Nickel is cheap,
paladium as expensive as platinum.
The cheap nickel will give a pale yellow 'white' gold
mixture, paladium will give a pale white 'white' gold
mixture, very near to the unpolished
platinum equivalent. Both these 18ct white gold mixtures
(alloys) will need to be rhodiated or rhodium plated.
When the rhodium plating, is worn away the cheaper nickel
alloy will show a pale yellow shaded area coming through,
the paladium alloy will not but
will only show a more mat or unpolished surface hardly
noticeable against the already worn and tarnished shiny
rhodium surface.
In time the rhodium plating will
wear away, this will depend on the
quality of the plating itself, if
poorly plated then within 6 months signs of wear will
appear, however, if properly
plated it will certainly last at least 3 years, in fact
just as long as would
platinum, which, as with rhodium, will have lost
most of its 'shine' and
will need to be re-polished as
well.
Re-polishing platinum means taking
a thin layer of actual metal off the
ring in the process. This means,
in time, say within after 20 years and on average 7
polishing sessions, the ring will
become thinner each time and
may, in time crack which will then require a new
mount to be made.
18ct white gold, on the other hand, within this same time
span, will need to be re-rhodiated, but this time much less
polishing is required, and a further layer
of rhodium is applied. This means that your mount
will last much longer
and cost you less in maintenance costs, not the
contrary.
Another disadvantage of platinum is its brittle nature. If
knocked, a platinum mount may
crack, if it is a claw, this will break off and you may lose
the stone, gold, on the other hand, will give and bend which
will then easily allow repair and safeguard your losing the
diamond.
Lastly Platinum is more expensive, as compared to 18ct gold and has a 30% extra density as well which means that it will cost over twice the price to manufacture than the alternative 'better' solution.
Yes you may well ask, then, why do some jewellers recommend this metal. Well there are three reasons really.
1/ They may just have that particular
style you like in platinum, so it is easier to supply
something they have rather something they don't.
2/ Their margins are based on
turnover, platinum being much more expensive will allow them
to earn more.
3/ They are being supplied poor
quality white 18ct gold by their wholesaler and prefer
'pushing' the platinum model as they will not be getting
complaints from their clients, risking losing them in the
process.
We only supply 18ct white gold mixed with paladium, hence the small surcharge.
We are always happy to answer any further questions on this subject.

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